Dethatching is the process of eliminating thatch accumulation from the lawn’s root zone in order to improve the soil’s accessibility to moisture, sunlight, and fertilizers.

Thatch buildup is made up of small pieces of detritus and dead, undigested grass stems and roots. The material that is “imprisoned” above the soil’s base forms a barrier that slows the pace at which water and other essential nutrients are absorbed. Additionally, it may shelter pests and promote disease. Although thatch buildup in lawns is a normal process, excessive buildup is a very prevalent problem that can be quickly identified. Simply spread out your lawn with your fingertips to count how much dead grass has accumulated before you get to the earth. Your grass won’t look its best if you have too much thatch.

In Owatonna, Minnesota, we employ two techniques for reducing thatch buildup, and we advise you to assess your requirements in the early spring:

The most popular method is to use mower-mounted tine rake dethatchers. Our lawn mower has a dethatcher attached to the front. The dethatcher’s tines sift through and remove thatch. The mower simultaneously “vacuums” the debris into its bagger. The mower blades are activated in this manner. The additional benefit of this approach is that the lawn is also mowed and bagged. We advise using this less expensive approach of dethatching annually in the spring, especially on thicker lawns.

Dethatching with a rotary machine is far more disruptive to the lawn. Only really severe thatch build up is advised for this procedure, even if it is necessary to handle it if it is an issue. The idea is the same as the mower-mounted equipment; thatch is stirred up by tiny blades before being removed. After that, it is vacuumed up and thrown away

Leaf Removal

The frequency of mowing depends on the rate of grass growth and the desired height of your lawn. During the growing season, mowing your lawn once a week should be plenty to keep it healthy. If necessary, you might lower the frequency of cutting to every other week throughout the remaining time.

Lawn height increases in the summertime, just like the temperature. The lawn’s soil is shaded by higher grass covering it, which helps ward off bothersome weeds like crabgrass and shields the lawn’s roots from the intense heat.

For tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, you can mow your cool season grass up to 4 inches high in the summer. Warm season grasses should have a 2 to 2.5 inch rounded end.

Every week, your lawn needs around one inch of water. One inch per week is required for fertile soil and robust grass roots, and can be provided by your sprinkler system or natural rainfall.

The time of day you water your lawn can have an impact on weed growth, disease development, and grass growth. Keep in mind the following crucial watering advice for the finest lawn care results:

Avoid watering between 11 am and 3 pm, when it’s often the hottest of the day.

Water between 6 and 10 in the morning when there is less sun, heat, and wind.

If you can’t water in the morning, water between 4 and 7 in the afternoon instead.

Avoid watering at night as it attracts outdoor pests, fungus illnesses, and mildew.

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